Root-zone or reservoir pH climbing steadily

Likely causes, most likely first

Ranked for this sign on its own. Your stage, medium and readings change the order, so run the checker for your plant.

1. PossibleHard, alkaline water pushing pH up over weeks

   Root zoneLow urgencyRead: Water quality for cannabis: RO vs tap, alkalinity, bicarbonates and chloramine

   Fix: Alkalinity, not water pH, drives the climb. Above about 100-150 mg/L as CaCO3 (2-3 meq/L), neutralise most of it with acid to an input pH of 5.8-6.2, or blend with RO water. Track runoff pH weekly.

   Recovery: Runoff pH stops climbing over 2-3 weeks.

   How to confirm it

   • Get a water report (or test your water). Ask your water utility for the annual report or test well water: alkalinity (mg/L CaCO3), pH, EC, Ca, Mg, Na, Cl, B, and whether it uses chlorine or chloramine. Alkalinity above ~100-150 mg/L as CaCO3 pushes root-zone pH up; sodium above ~50 mg/L and chloride above ~70 mg/L are a problem; softened water is high in sodium.
   • Measure input pH and root-zone (runoff or reservoir) pH. Calibrate the meter with fresh pH 7 and pH 4 buffers, then measure the mixed feed and the runoff (containers) or reservoir (hydro). Soil and living soil should sit at 6.0-7.0, coco, rockwool and peat mixes at 5.5-6.5, hydro at 5.5-6.2. Track 3+ readings; one reading is not a trend.
   • Pour-through extraction for container pH and EC. Water normally, wait 30 minutes to 2 hours, pour enough pH-adjusted water on top to collect about 50 mL of leachate (roughly 75 mL for a 15 cm pot, 150 mL for a 4 L pot, 350 mL for 11 L), and measure pH and EC of that 50 mL. Less disruptive than full runoff and more repeatable.

2. PossibleHigh root-zone pH locking out iron, manganese, zinc, boron and copper

   pHDeal with it this weekRead: pH and nutrient availability: what pH really controls, by medium

   Fix: Bring root-zone pH into range: soil 6.2-6.8, coco and rockwool 5.8-6.2, hydro 5.5-6.2. Lower input pH by 0.2-0.3 units at a time rather than crashing it; neutralise alkaline water with a mineral acid (phosphoric, nitric or sulfuric; wear gloves and eye protection, add acid to water). Use an iron chelate stable at your pH (DTPA or EDDHA above 6.5).

   Recovery: Runoff or reservoir pH back in range at two consecutive checks; new leaves open green within 5-10 days.

   How to confirm it

   • Measure input pH and root-zone (runoff or reservoir) pH. Calibrate the meter with fresh pH 7 and pH 4 buffers, then measure the mixed feed and the runoff (containers) or reservoir (hydro). Soil and living soil should sit at 6.0-7.0, coco, rockwool and peat mixes at 5.5-6.5, hydro at 5.5-6.2. Track 3+ readings; one reading is not a trend.
   • Check the meters against fresh standards. Put the pH probe in fresh pH 7.0 and 4.0 buffer and the EC probe in a 1.413 mS/cm standard. If pH reads more than 0.1-0.2 off, recalibrate; if it can't be calibrated or the slope is below ~90-95%, replace the probe. Many 'lockouts' are a drifting meter.
   • Get a water report (or test your water). Ask your water utility for the annual report or test well water: alkalinity (mg/L CaCO3), pH, EC, Ca, Mg, Na, Cl, B, and whether it uses chlorine or chloramine. Alkalinity above ~100-150 mg/L as CaCO3 pushes root-zone pH up; sodium above ~50 mg/L and chloride above ~70 mg/L are a problem; softened water is high in sodium.
   • Pour-through extraction for container pH and EC. Water normally, wait 30 minutes to 2 hours, pour enough pH-adjusted water on top to collect about 50 mL of leachate (roughly 75 mL for a 15 cm pot, 150 mL for a 4 L pot, 350 mL for 11 L), and measure pH and EC of that 50 mL. Less disruptive than full runoff and more repeatable.

3. Less likelyAlgae from light reaching wet surfaces or the reservoir

   Root zoneLow urgencyRead: How do I stop algae in my reservoir or on my medium?

   Fix: Block all light from reservoirs, tubing and the medium surface (opaque lids, covers on rockwool). Clean surfaces between runs. Algae competes for oxygen and feeds gnats and shore flies.

   Recovery: No new green growth within 1-2 weeks of light-proofing.

   How to confirm it

   • Look at the roots. Hydro: lift the net pot and look at the root mass in good white light. Containers: tip the plant out with a hand over the medium and look at the edges and bottom of the root ball. Healthy roots are white to cream with fine fuzzy tips. Brown roots whose outer layer slides off between the fingers leave a bare thread: rot. Firm, evenly tan roots with white tips in coloured solution are staining.

4. Less likelyUncalibrated or failing pH or EC meter

   Physical damageDeal with it this weekRead: pH and EC meter calibration: buffers, slope, storage and when to replace a probe

   Fix: Calibrate the pH meter with fresh pH 7 then pH 4 buffer before decisions and at least weekly; store the probe wet in storage solution, never in RO water. Check EC against 1.413 mS/cm. Replace probes that won't calibrate (typical life 1-2 years). Drops and strips are too coarse to diagnose with.

   Recovery: Readings match the buffers within 0.1 pH; the 'problem' pH disappears or is confirmed.

   How to confirm it

   • Check the meters against fresh standards. Put the pH probe in fresh pH 7.0 and 4.0 buffer and the EC probe in a 1.413 mS/cm standard. If pH reads more than 0.1-0.2 off, recalibrate; if it can't be calibrated or the slope is below ~90-95%, replace the probe. Many 'lockouts' are a drifting meter.

Look for

pH log over a week..