Yellow banana-shaped anthers in the buds

Likely causes, most likely first

Ranked for this sign on its own. Your stage, medium and readings change the order, so run the checker for your plant.

1. PossibleHermaphrodite (herm-prone genetics revealed by stress)

   GeneticsAct within a day or twoRead: Hermaphrodite cannabis (bananas and nanners): what to do

   Fix: Fix light leaks and stress, but treat the plant as defective genetics: remove it if it sheds pollen, never keep it as a mother and never breed from it. Late-flower bananas are not normal. A few early anthers can be picked off to save the crop, then check twice a week.

   Recovery: No new anthers on twice-weekly checks; unaffected plants stay seed-free.

   How to confirm it

   • Inspect buds and nodes for anthers and pollen sacs. From week 2 of flower, check nodes and buds with a 10x loupe twice a week. Look for pollen sacs on stalks at nodes and pale-yellow banana-shaped anthers among the pistils. Mark and photograph what you find; check the whole plant, not one bud.
   • Check for light leaks in the dark period. Sit inside the tent or room for 5 minutes after lights-off until your eyes adjust. Look for pinholes, zips, vents, indicator LEDs on equipment and light under doors. Also confirm the timer actually switches off and stays off.

2. PossibleLight leak or interrupted dark period

   LightAct within a day or twoRead: Photoperiod and light leaks: 18/6, 12/12 and the dark period

   Fix: Seal the dark period: pinholes, zips, vents and equipment LEDs (tape them), and check the timer. Even dim night light can delay flowering in sensitive cultivars and reveal herm-prone genetics. Use a green headlamp only for brief checks.

   Recovery: Flowering resumes within 1-2 weeks; no new single-blade leaves.

   How to confirm it

   • Check for light leaks in the dark period. Sit inside the tent or room for 5 minutes after lights-off until your eyes adjust. Look for pinholes, zips, vents, indicator LEDs on equipment and light under doors. Also confirm the timer actually switches off and stays off.

3. Less likelyHeat stress

   EnvironmentAct within a day or twoRead: Heat and light stress: taco leaves, bleaching and foxtails

   Fix: Bring canopy leaf temperature under about 30 °C (86 °F): more exhaust (one tent air exchange every 1-3 minutes), raise or dim the light, add canopy airflow (0.3-1.0 m/s), keep RH so VPD stays 1.0-1.5 kPa, water well. Above ~30 °C photosynthesis falls unless CO2 and light are high.

   Recovery: Leaves flatten within a day; no new foxtails or crisping.

   How to confirm it

   • IR leaf temperature at the canopy top. Point an IR thermometer at the top leaves under the light (5-10 cm away, emissivity 0.95) and at shaded leaves. Leaf temperature above about 30 °C (86 °F) at the top only points to heat or radiant load; leaf VPD can be calculated from leaf temperature and RH.
   • Check temperature and RH at canopy height with a calibrated sensor. Put a calibrated sensor (salt test: a sealed bag with damp table salt reads 75% RH after 8-12 hours) at canopy height, out of direct light, and log for 24 hours including lights-off. Look for lights-off RH spikes and dew point.

Look for

Pale-yellow curved anthers poking out among pistils, sometimes dusty with pollen..