Growing tips dying or aborting

Likely causes, most likely first

Ranked for this sign on its own. Your stage, medium and readings change the order, so run the checker for your plant.

1. PossibleCalcium deficiency (often a delivery problem)

   NutrientDeal with it this weekRead: Calcium (Ca) in cannabis: deficiency, transport, targets and sources

   Fix: Rule out mites with a 30-60x lens first. Then fix delivery: leaf VPD 0.8-1.5 kPa (lights-on RH not stuck high), airflow under the canopy, root-zone pH not below ~5.8 in coco. If supply is short (RO water, unbuffered coco), bring Ca to about 150-200 mg/L with calcium nitrate or a Cal-Mag at label rate. LEDs do not create a Cal-Mag need; that is a myth.

   Recovery: Leaves that open 7-10 days after the fix are flat and spot-free; old spots stay.

   How to confirm it

   • Magnifier check of leaf undersides and new growth. Use a 10-20x loupe for spider mites, thrips, aphids and whiteflies, and a 30-60x lens or clip-on phone macro for broad and russet mites. Check the undersides of 10 affected leaves across several plants and the newest shoot tips, in white light. Look for moving dots, eggs, shed skins, webbing, slender insects with black specks, and glassy specks on new growth.
   • Measure input pH and root-zone (runoff or reservoir) pH. Calibrate the meter with fresh pH 7 and pH 4 buffers, then measure the mixed feed and the runoff (containers) or reservoir (hydro). Soil and living soil should sit at 6.0-7.0, coco, rockwool and peat mixes at 5.5-6.5, hydro at 5.5-6.2. Track 3+ readings; one reading is not a trend.
   • Get a water report (or test your water). Ask your water utility for the annual report or test well water: alkalinity (mg/L CaCO3), pH, EC, Ca, Mg, Na, Cl, B, and whether it uses chlorine or chloramine. Alkalinity above ~100-150 mg/L as CaCO3 pushes root-zone pH up; sodium above ~50 mg/L and chloride above ~70 mg/L are a problem; softened water is high in sodium.
   • Check temperature and RH at canopy height with a calibrated sensor. Put a calibrated sensor (salt test: a sealed bag with damp table salt reads 75% RH after 8-12 hours) at canopy height, out of direct light, and log for 24 hours including lights-off. Look for lights-off RH spikes and dew point.
   • Watch new growth for 5-10 days after one change. Make one correction at a time, mark the top node with a twist tie and photograph the same leaves every 2-3 days. Damaged leaves never recover; judge only new growth and whether the symptom stops spreading. Mobile-nutrient symptoms stop climbing within 5-7 days; immobile ones show in new leaves within 7-10 days.

2. Less likelyBoron deficiency

   NutrientDeal with it this weekRead: Boron (B) in cannabis: distorted tips, dying roots and a narrow safe window

   Fix: Rule out broad mites first. Supply about 0.2-0.5 mg/L B (boric acid ~1.1-2.9 mg/L, or a complete micro mix). The gap between enough and too much is narrow: never add B 'just in case' on top of a complete feed.

   Recovery: New shoots grow normally from the tip or from side buds within 10-14 days.

   How to confirm it

   • Magnifier check of leaf undersides and new growth. Use a 10-20x loupe for spider mites, thrips, aphids and whiteflies, and a 30-60x lens or clip-on phone macro for broad and russet mites. Check the undersides of 10 affected leaves across several plants and the newest shoot tips, in white light. Look for moving dots, eggs, shed skins, webbing, slender insects with black specks, and glassy specks on new growth.
   • Look at the roots. Hydro: lift the net pot and look at the root mass in good white light. Containers: tip the plant out with a hand over the medium and look at the edges and bottom of the root ball. Healthy roots are white to cream with fine fuzzy tips. Brown roots whose outer layer slides off between the fingers leave a bare thread: rot. Firm, evenly tan roots with white tips in coloured solution are staining.
   • Leaf tissue analysis. Send 20-30 most-recently-matured leaves (no petioles) from affected plants, and separately from healthy ones, to an agricultural lab. Compare with cannabis and hemp sufficiency ranges (for example N 3.3-4.8%, Mg 0.40-0.81%, K 1.8-2.9% dry weight in recent mature leaves). Results take 1-2 weeks; use it to confirm a chronic problem, not an emergency.

3. Less likelyBroad mites

   PestAct within a day or twoRead: Broad mites on cannabis: life table, spread and control (plus russet mite summary)

   Fix: Confirm at 30-60x. Remove and bag heavily infested plants; mothers and clones are the usual source. Release predatory mites (e.g. Neoseiulus californicus or Amblyseius swirskii) on the rest, keep tools and clothes clean, quarantine new stock. In flower, removal is usually the only clean option.

   Recovery: New growth expands normally (not glossy or twisted) within 10-14 days.

   How to confirm it

   • Magnifier check of leaf undersides and new growth. Use a 10-20x loupe for spider mites, thrips, aphids and whiteflies, and a 30-60x lens or clip-on phone macro for broad and russet mites. Check the undersides of 10 affected leaves across several plants and the newest shoot tips, in white light. Look for moving dots, eggs, shed skins, webbing, slender insects with black specks, and glassy specks on new growth.
   • Watch new growth for 5-10 days after one change. Make one correction at a time, mark the top node with a twist tie and photograph the same leaves every 2-3 days. Damaged leaves never recover; judge only new growth and whether the symptom stops spreading. Mobile-nutrient symptoms stop climbing within 5-7 days; immobile ones show in new leaves within 7-10 days.

Look for

Brown or black dead shoot tip with distorted leaves below and new side shoots..